At Home
Wednesday, 30 October 2013
Friday, 11 October 2013
apples, aconites and all things autumn
This morning, cool and still, I breathe deeply as I cross the glistening lawn, sucking in the autumny air, savouring - what? - a tang of damp smokiness and that slightly sour smell of newly turned earth, so that immediately I'm back on school playing fields and the misery of impossible lacrosse in a biting wind. In Second Nature, Michael Pollan suggests that a garden always casts a 'backward glance' for us, and the pull seems particularly strong at this time of year. At twelve, organised sports were for me a chilly endurance test, but I recall with something like affection the massy trees - chestnuts, perhaps? - that edged the pitch. Trees are on my mind at the moment: the tree surgeons have started work on the clump of towering Caucasian wingnut, pterocarya fraxinifolia, which straddles the stream. The original two trees, both now gone, have produced an awesome thicket of stems and branches, but some trunks are quite hollow in places and all have woodpecker holes, apparently, so there will be some thinning, some felling - some to be left as standing poles - and all to be trimmed by five or six metres at the crown. I guess tree planting necessitates a long view; but how quickly the shape of a landscape or a skyline can change!
I'm easily distracted: by the Brookside gate and into the woodland garden, purple everywhere - aconites, I discover - and again in the systematic beds. They're part of the ranunculaceae family - buttercups, I think - and yes when I check I find this is correct. At last: one piece of new knowledge that has stuck! The Latin ranunculus means 'little frog', apparently, but I can't find an explanation of why this term has attached itself to the family. Delphiniums belong to the same family, of course - I can see the similarities - and larkspur, although this part of the bed is empty apart from the label. I have an idea that aconites are poisonous and yes, so poisonous I learn that aconitum is known as the 'queen of poisons'. Other names are monkshood (the hood is clearly visible) and devil's helmet, wolf's bane (from the ancient use of toxins extracted from the plant to kill wolves) but also woman's bane (?!), leopard's bane and blue rocket. Used widely if sparingly in medicine, especially Chinese medicine, from the mid-twentieth century it was replaced in the west by safer alternatives. If taken in large doses, death is likely to be almost instantaneous. It sounds perfect for the murder mystery - wasn't it Agatha Christie who said 'Give me a decent bottle of poison and I'll construct the perfect crime'? Apparently she used aconite to dispatch several characters in 4.50 from Paddington. Building on Christie's status as arguably the most famous resident of her native Torquay, Torre Abbey's head gardener Ali Marshall and her team have devoted part of their gardens to a display of poisons (including aconitum) and other plants which feature in her work. Naive I know, but I feel that something so deadly (its poison can be absorbed through the skin if handled without gloves) ought to look in some way dangerous. The bad that hides behind a fair face never ceases to surprise, though: remember Hamlet, so appalled by dissembling that he felt bound to make a note of his discovery that 'one may smile and smile and be a villain'.
As far as I know there is nothing sinister in the lovely Persian ironwood, a stone's throw from the systematic beds and, I learn from its sign, head of horticulture Sally Pettit's favourite. A member of the witch-hazel family Hamamelidaceae, its Latin name parrotia persica is nothing to do with birds but is derived rather from the German naturalist and traveller Dr Friedrich Parrot who discovered the tree in its native northern Iran on one of his expeditions. An impressive all-rounder in that rather disturbing nineteenth century way, a mountaineer who make the first recorded ascent of Mount
Ararat, he was also various kinds of scientist (professor of physiology and pathology and later of physics), a surgeon in the Russian army and an inventor of, amongst other things, a 'gasometer' and a baro-thermometer. As for his tree, apparently in winter it's remarkable for its tiny scarlet flowers (see Judy Fox's description of them on 'snow-etched branches' at http://www.thresholds.org.uk/discovering-gems-at-the-botanic-garden/ ). Today its leaves are turning, shades of peach and raspberry, claret and damson, mustard and ochre. I prowl around the glade beneath its many hanging branches, running my fingers across its scaly bark, trying to test the theory that the only way to see a plant for real is from below. This does give an extra something, some trick of the light perhaps, but every way up it's a spectacle worth stopping for.
Another good place to loiter, I've discovered, is up towards the top of the limestone garden. I perch on a lump of rock and watch. A magpie flies through my field of vision - one for sorrow? On the other side of the water, a crow wheels up the empty sky to the top of a pine. Down on the lake, a mallard picks his clumsy way through the lilies, where the lily pads are now and again blown upright, ragged sails on slender stalks, plucky but precarious, holding up for a second or two before falling back like windsurfers new to the game. Not so much purple here, although the spreading catalpa erubescens 'purpurea' to my left bears the colour in its name - I read that the leaves emerge deep purple before fading to their now delicate pale green. Yellows and greens predominate, with a blaze of golden sternbergia lutea, lilies of the field and a small patch of what might be 'black-eyed Susans'. There's a question of scale to contend with, too: like the tiny mauve aster (is it?) sprouting from the rock on which I'm balanced, many of the plants here are very small - a garden in miniature when viewed against the backdrop of the huge cedars on the other side of the lake.
Today when I arrive home, there's a fat little parcel on my desk. I know exactly what's inside. I tear at the tape and the layers of padded envelope until they're revealed, a pair of red devils unmarked by their journey. They're from a tree that was assigned to me by my Cumbrian friends when they extended their organic veg garden to include an orchard, and these fruits are from their first harvest. They're a deep crimson, fading to a warm salmony pink on the cheek and in the rays that radiate from the core, with roughened buff patches around the stalk. When I bite into one, the flesh is white and juicy, with a pink blush beneath the skin, or staining, as if lipstick has transferred itself from a blood-red mouth. It smells of summer and strawberries; the taste a hint of sour beneath a peppery sweetness.
I'm easily distracted: by the Brookside gate and into the woodland garden, purple everywhere - aconites, I discover - and again in the systematic beds. They're part of the ranunculaceae family - buttercups, I think - and yes when I check I find this is correct. At last: one piece of new knowledge that has stuck! The Latin ranunculus means 'little frog', apparently, but I can't find an explanation of why this term has attached itself to the family. Delphiniums belong to the same family, of course - I can see the similarities - and larkspur, although this part of the bed is empty apart from the label. I have an idea that aconites are poisonous and yes, so poisonous I learn that aconitum is known as the 'queen of poisons'. Other names are monkshood (the hood is clearly visible) and devil's helmet, wolf's bane (from the ancient use of toxins extracted from the plant to kill wolves) but also woman's bane (?!), leopard's bane and blue rocket. Used widely if sparingly in medicine, especially Chinese medicine, from the mid-twentieth century it was replaced in the west by safer alternatives. If taken in large doses, death is likely to be almost instantaneous. It sounds perfect for the murder mystery - wasn't it Agatha Christie who said 'Give me a decent bottle of poison and I'll construct the perfect crime'? Apparently she used aconite to dispatch several characters in 4.50 from Paddington. Building on Christie's status as arguably the most famous resident of her native Torquay, Torre Abbey's head gardener Ali Marshall and her team have devoted part of their gardens to a display of poisons (including aconitum) and other plants which feature in her work. Naive I know, but I feel that something so deadly (its poison can be absorbed through the skin if handled without gloves) ought to look in some way dangerous. The bad that hides behind a fair face never ceases to surprise, though: remember Hamlet, so appalled by dissembling that he felt bound to make a note of his discovery that 'one may smile and smile and be a villain'.
As far as I know there is nothing sinister in the lovely Persian ironwood, a stone's throw from the systematic beds and, I learn from its sign, head of horticulture Sally Pettit's favourite. A member of the witch-hazel family Hamamelidaceae, its Latin name parrotia persica is nothing to do with birds but is derived rather from the German naturalist and traveller Dr Friedrich Parrot who discovered the tree in its native northern Iran on one of his expeditions. An impressive all-rounder in that rather disturbing nineteenth century way, a mountaineer who make the first recorded ascent of Mount
Ararat, he was also various kinds of scientist (professor of physiology and pathology and later of physics), a surgeon in the Russian army and an inventor of, amongst other things, a 'gasometer' and a baro-thermometer. As for his tree, apparently in winter it's remarkable for its tiny scarlet flowers (see Judy Fox's description of them on 'snow-etched branches' at http://www.thresholds.org.uk/discovering-gems-at-the-botanic-garden/ ). Today its leaves are turning, shades of peach and raspberry, claret and damson, mustard and ochre. I prowl around the glade beneath its many hanging branches, running my fingers across its scaly bark, trying to test the theory that the only way to see a plant for real is from below. This does give an extra something, some trick of the light perhaps, but every way up it's a spectacle worth stopping for.
Another good place to loiter, I've discovered, is up towards the top of the limestone garden. I perch on a lump of rock and watch. A magpie flies through my field of vision - one for sorrow? On the other side of the water, a crow wheels up the empty sky to the top of a pine. Down on the lake, a mallard picks his clumsy way through the lilies, where the lily pads are now and again blown upright, ragged sails on slender stalks, plucky but precarious, holding up for a second or two before falling back like windsurfers new to the game. Not so much purple here, although the spreading catalpa erubescens 'purpurea' to my left bears the colour in its name - I read that the leaves emerge deep purple before fading to their now delicate pale green. Yellows and greens predominate, with a blaze of golden sternbergia lutea, lilies of the field and a small patch of what might be 'black-eyed Susans'. There's a question of scale to contend with, too: like the tiny mauve aster (is it?) sprouting from the rock on which I'm balanced, many of the plants here are very small - a garden in miniature when viewed against the backdrop of the huge cedars on the other side of the lake.
Today when I arrive home, there's a fat little parcel on my desk. I know exactly what's inside. I tear at the tape and the layers of padded envelope until they're revealed, a pair of red devils unmarked by their journey. They're from a tree that was assigned to me by my Cumbrian friends when they extended their organic veg garden to include an orchard, and these fruits are from their first harvest. They're a deep crimson, fading to a warm salmony pink on the cheek and in the rays that radiate from the core, with roughened buff patches around the stalk. When I bite into one, the flesh is white and juicy, with a pink blush beneath the skin, or staining, as if lipstick has transferred itself from a blood-red mouth. It smells of summer and strawberries; the taste a hint of sour beneath a peppery sweetness.
Wednesday, 25 September 2013
September
A very stretchy month, this, one foot lingering in summer, the other striding impatiently on towards autumn. For the first few days (is it really only a few weeks ago?) we're blessed with fine weather and high temperatures, the sun so fierce even I have to look for shade, and the visitors keep on coming. The air is heavy with mysterious lemony and peppery scents. Near the Brookside gate, armies of Michaelmas daisies are still massing, looking a bit the worse for wear but they're not giving in yet. Around them - camp followers or local colour? - tall nicotiana sylvestris loll insouciant: they're browning at the edges now but if they know they don't care. And clumps of echinacea are hanging in there, the vivid pink of their petals fading to old linen, papery white. As the colour drains out of the petals it seems to creep into the central cone which glows with a greenish intensity.
The season demands you look up. Trees that one day sport a streak of red and gold turn overnight to flame. The sweet buckeye, aesculus flava, and its neighbouring acers lead the way. Once I do look up, though, I find I'm seduced by those that keep their colour and their leaves. One morning I deviate from my usual route, setting off along the West Walk as far as the old main gates on Trumpington Road, where the steps are bright with pots of purple verbena bonariensis (thanks to all who helped with identification) mixed with the reds and oranges of dahlias bobbing about in the breeze, poking their noses in to everybody's business. Here I turn left along the Main Walk as far as the crossing with Henslow Walk. The conifers that line the avenue reach a sort of climax at this crossroads, with four colossal specimens, one on each of the four corners. I have the place to myself, apart from a woodpecker and a bunch of magpies chattering somewhere, and I want to get to know these trees a bit better. I step off the path onto the impacted earth under one of these giants, cedrus atlantica, Atlas cedar, expecting a hard surface. Instead, it's as if a woolly blanket has been spread beneath my feet, the long straw-coloured curves of dead needles creating a soft, springy carpet. What would it feel like in bare feet? In Four Hedges, Clare Leighton takes us to task for 'lazily' looking at things, missing out on the 'vast range of emotion' available to us through our other senses, so I run my fingers over its ridged bark and then move on to the Crimean pine, whose bark is softer and scalier. I continue the touch test on the cedrus libani and then on the giant redwood, at just over 30 metres the tallest tree in the garden and one of the oldest, grown from the first seed brought into this country by Cornishman William Lobb in 1851.
There's plenty to catch the eye on the ground, of course. By accident I come upon the new perennial meadow planting just to the east of Cory Lodge. Designed by James Hitchmough, Professor of Horticultural Ecology at Sheffield University, it relies on drought-tolerant plants which will knit together to flower from April to October. At present it's a surprisingly rich tapestry, predominantly purples and salmon pinks and yellows against the dark background of the yew hedge. In the bee beds, the sherbet yellow of the snapdragons contrasts with the crushed raspberry of the sedums. Springing
up everywhere in shady spots are tiny cyclamen, white, palest pink and every shade of purple, like stars or jewels in the dark ground. And autumn crocus appear here and there, standing gamely, almost upright, on such slender stems. They're easily floored by wind and rain, 'but how gently they lay their heads down flat on the grass to die, making of death a gracious thing': Clare Leighton again.
There's so much to read and so much fine writing I'd love to emulate, without simply repeating what's been done so well by others. Hence my woeful vagueness when I'm asked - as I am more and more often now that I'm becoming a more familiar face around the Garden - 'So what exactly is it you're doing?' 'Um...' is usually the best I can come up with. I suppose I'm interested first to explore what the garden - and this Garden - means to each of us, and how it fits into our experience of the natural world; and secondly, how best we might record our experiences. In theory my focus is the journal, the kind of record that writers and gardeners over the ages have chosen to keep. So I'm reading everything I can get my hands on, from Dorothy Wordsworth to Derek Jarman, Vita Sackville-West to Virginia Woolf, Alice Oswald, Katherine Swift, Mrs Loudon... Tomorrow it's Beth Chatto and Emily Lawless. Also now on my list are the opening of Hilary Mantel's Beyond Black (thanks, Paul) and, courtesy of friend and poet Clare Crossman, Jean Sprackland's Strands; also from my friend Tim a sequence of articles on Linnaeus and Tim's copy of Linnaeus's Lapland Journal, which I'm hoping he'll let me borrow. In the last couple of days I've encountered three pieces which are so impressive that I've been tempted to put down the pen for good. Sarah Hall's 'Mrs Fox' was the first of five stories short-listed for the BBC National Short Story Award broadcast on Radio 4 this week. A fellow-Cumbrian, I've been following her career with interest and some envy. She's really prolific and, as far as originality goes - well, you could listen on iPlayer. Second was the opening page of Tim Dee's Four Fields - wonderful. And then, yesterday evening, a Twitter feed sent me to Helen Mort's new poem 'Passing Places' - wow!
I'm not giving up, though, not yet. I still have a headful of impressions that haven't made it onto paper - the smell of cut grass, the dead bird (head missing) that Laura found this afternoon, the high-tech world of the experimental glasshouses with their automated shade and temperature control and the mist machine, cafe mums, the sound of a penny whistle across the big lawn... This morning there's a nip in the air and - yes, definitely mist as I cycle across Parker's Piece, autumn 'showing the marks of its fingers' in the dew on the grass is how Clare Leighton puts it. The sun, when it comes, has lost the ferocity of the start of the month - more like a warm caress than a hammer blow. And I think the
echinacea may have had its day for this year: two gardeners are digging just behind it in the bed on the Lynch Walk. Perhaps it's this sense of endings which makes this such a famously melancholy time of year? It seems easy to slide into nostalgia: memories of meetings and re-meetings, and a kind of amorphous longing for woodland walks and tea and toast and log fires...
The season demands you look up. Trees that one day sport a streak of red and gold turn overnight to flame. The sweet buckeye, aesculus flava, and its neighbouring acers lead the way. Once I do look up, though, I find I'm seduced by those that keep their colour and their leaves. One morning I deviate from my usual route, setting off along the West Walk as far as the old main gates on Trumpington Road, where the steps are bright with pots of purple verbena bonariensis (thanks to all who helped with identification) mixed with the reds and oranges of dahlias bobbing about in the breeze, poking their noses in to everybody's business. Here I turn left along the Main Walk as far as the crossing with Henslow Walk. The conifers that line the avenue reach a sort of climax at this crossroads, with four colossal specimens, one on each of the four corners. I have the place to myself, apart from a woodpecker and a bunch of magpies chattering somewhere, and I want to get to know these trees a bit better. I step off the path onto the impacted earth under one of these giants, cedrus atlantica, Atlas cedar, expecting a hard surface. Instead, it's as if a woolly blanket has been spread beneath my feet, the long straw-coloured curves of dead needles creating a soft, springy carpet. What would it feel like in bare feet? In Four Hedges, Clare Leighton takes us to task for 'lazily' looking at things, missing out on the 'vast range of emotion' available to us through our other senses, so I run my fingers over its ridged bark and then move on to the Crimean pine, whose bark is softer and scalier. I continue the touch test on the cedrus libani and then on the giant redwood, at just over 30 metres the tallest tree in the garden and one of the oldest, grown from the first seed brought into this country by Cornishman William Lobb in 1851.
There's plenty to catch the eye on the ground, of course. By accident I come upon the new perennial meadow planting just to the east of Cory Lodge. Designed by James Hitchmough, Professor of Horticultural Ecology at Sheffield University, it relies on drought-tolerant plants which will knit together to flower from April to October. At present it's a surprisingly rich tapestry, predominantly purples and salmon pinks and yellows against the dark background of the yew hedge. In the bee beds, the sherbet yellow of the snapdragons contrasts with the crushed raspberry of the sedums. Springing
up everywhere in shady spots are tiny cyclamen, white, palest pink and every shade of purple, like stars or jewels in the dark ground. And autumn crocus appear here and there, standing gamely, almost upright, on such slender stems. They're easily floored by wind and rain, 'but how gently they lay their heads down flat on the grass to die, making of death a gracious thing': Clare Leighton again.
There's so much to read and so much fine writing I'd love to emulate, without simply repeating what's been done so well by others. Hence my woeful vagueness when I'm asked - as I am more and more often now that I'm becoming a more familiar face around the Garden - 'So what exactly is it you're doing?' 'Um...' is usually the best I can come up with. I suppose I'm interested first to explore what the garden - and this Garden - means to each of us, and how it fits into our experience of the natural world; and secondly, how best we might record our experiences. In theory my focus is the journal, the kind of record that writers and gardeners over the ages have chosen to keep. So I'm reading everything I can get my hands on, from Dorothy Wordsworth to Derek Jarman, Vita Sackville-West to Virginia Woolf, Alice Oswald, Katherine Swift, Mrs Loudon... Tomorrow it's Beth Chatto and Emily Lawless. Also now on my list are the opening of Hilary Mantel's Beyond Black (thanks, Paul) and, courtesy of friend and poet Clare Crossman, Jean Sprackland's Strands; also from my friend Tim a sequence of articles on Linnaeus and Tim's copy of Linnaeus's Lapland Journal, which I'm hoping he'll let me borrow. In the last couple of days I've encountered three pieces which are so impressive that I've been tempted to put down the pen for good. Sarah Hall's 'Mrs Fox' was the first of five stories short-listed for the BBC National Short Story Award broadcast on Radio 4 this week. A fellow-Cumbrian, I've been following her career with interest and some envy. She's really prolific and, as far as originality goes - well, you could listen on iPlayer. Second was the opening page of Tim Dee's Four Fields - wonderful. And then, yesterday evening, a Twitter feed sent me to Helen Mort's new poem 'Passing Places' - wow!
I'm not giving up, though, not yet. I still have a headful of impressions that haven't made it onto paper - the smell of cut grass, the dead bird (head missing) that Laura found this afternoon, the high-tech world of the experimental glasshouses with their automated shade and temperature control and the mist machine, cafe mums, the sound of a penny whistle across the big lawn... This morning there's a nip in the air and - yes, definitely mist as I cycle across Parker's Piece, autumn 'showing the marks of its fingers' in the dew on the grass is how Clare Leighton puts it. The sun, when it comes, has lost the ferocity of the start of the month - more like a warm caress than a hammer blow. And I think the
echinacea may have had its day for this year: two gardeners are digging just behind it in the bed on the Lynch Walk. Perhaps it's this sense of endings which makes this such a famously melancholy time of year? It seems easy to slide into nostalgia: memories of meetings and re-meetings, and a kind of amorphous longing for woodland walks and tea and toast and log fires...
Monday, 2 September 2013
Answers on a postcard
Well I've been away but I haven't been idle - at least not all the time. A curious effect of my new identity is that suddenly I'm expected to be much more knowledgeable about plants than I am - 'I wonder if you know what this is, Kate?' Usually the answer is no, although I think I'm learning. One delicious favourite that seemed to be flourishing everywhere on my trip to Brittany and which we struggled to identify is out in force in Cambridge now I'm back and I'm still none the wiser. Help, someone, please!
This was my first visit this year to Nick and Di's lovely Landroannec home and it was great to see how their garden is coming on. The wonderfully blowsy blue hydrangeas so popular in northern France rub shoulders with fuchsia and camellia and wisteria (building up to a second flowering, as here) and walnut trees that seem to grow like weeds. The air is scented with roses and the last of the stocks, and Nick sent me up the drive to soak up the smell of the pines in the heat of the day - gorgeous. I managed a tiny bit of weeding on my last day. Mostly, though, I had the tough job of deciding between sun or shade, the grassy knoll under the apple tree or at the table just outside the house where we dawdled over breakfasts (wild blackberries and whitecurrants and windfall plums) that slid into coffee and, on the hottest, laziest days into lunch. On other days our pre-breakfast swim was augmented by a bike ride along the track into Mur for coffee and croissants in the local 'Rockwell' bar, and maybe a glass of wine before we wobbled home. The house martins nesting in the garage seem pretty comfortable there too, although Nick's bald head became a target of some rather frenzied ducking and diving if he strayed too close - why didn't Di and I suffer the same treatment? The babies were busy with flying lessons - we came upon our first, a velvety rabbit's paw of stripes and fluff on the path at our feet as we walked down to the lake early one morning. And oh that lake..!
A couple of kilometres along the road towards St Brieuc we found the delightful Jardins du Botrain, tucked away down a tiny back road. It's one of those gardens that's full of surprises - a modest little Japanese garden leads into mixed beds of mallows and daisies, roses and cosmos and loads of those fabulous purple things, hydrangeas of course, wonderful old trees and shady grassy bits, a pergola, a roseraie (a shame we don't have such a pretty English term for a rose garden), a wood and, just when you think you must have reached the boundary, a lake, bordered by gunnera, a tree fern, even a banana tree. It's rather overgrown in places, and full of quirks. Walking round felt more akin to sharing a private pleasure than sampling a public space. My favourite flight of fancy? - A woven willow frame for a view, at eye level in a thick hedge, a perfect circle, looking out from the darkness of the wood over open fields and farmland. We didn't investigate the history of the garden although it seems to be the product of a husband-and-wife team, who were very excited by the comment in the visitors' book from their latest English visitors, that Botrain was 'better than Sissinghurst'. And guess what we bought to take home to Landroannec? - an ajuga reptans. Sorry, Nancy.
On one of the sunniest days we drove to Etel, a small town on the south coast: coffee at the bar, a picnic lunch on the beach, many swims in the silky sea, a cold beer on the harbour. Then we joined 500 or so other customers at the long rows of trestle tables in the huge hangar of the criée, the fish market, to sample the grilled sardines that this area is famous for. It's an annual charity event, apparently, a week-long celebration, where the fishermen grill the fish outside in racks of about 100 I guess and their wives (!) serve at table. Very traditional, very noisy, very Breton - and very tasty. I cleared my plate, tails and all, unlike my neighbour who had more bones than fish by the end of her meal. There was far - a heavy Breton custard-type cake, sweetened with prunes - for pudding. I emerged, of course, with my new frock covered in grease spots. Thanks to Nick's internet research, a thick layer of cornflour left on for a few hours before washing did the trick.
This was my fifth visit, we reckon, though the details of the various stays proved impossible to recall clearly. We agonised at length over dates and times and possibilities. I'm not sure quite why it seemed so important to get the record straight, except that an absolutely crystal clear memory I have of an earlier visit to La Trinité-sur-Mer simply could not have happened. So I'm left wondering: did I dream this? Or are we capable of believing elaborate inventions of our own making? It's relevant partly because Di and I, as artist and writer, are engaged in what is, to us, a fascinating exploration of our own overlapping memories and how we might represent these. Does it matter if what we 'remember' simply isn't true..?
Whilst I was away I also spent a bit of time most days in Argentina - not literally, of course, not this time. But I'd gone away determined to finish editing a novel I began over four years ago and have been fiddling with off and on ever since. It's set entirely in Argentina, and deals with the 'Dirty War' of the 1970s and those who were 'disappeared' by the authorities. It hinges on memory, on the importance for a healthy society of being open about what is past. It was inspired I suppose by the various groups in Argentina today who are working to reclaim the memory of those terrible times in the search for truth and justice. When I was in Córdoba three years ago, I visited one of the secret detention centres which had recently been turned into a memorial. At the entrance, a huge thumbprint, a proof of identity, is made up of hundreds of names of the disappeared. So in Brittany, each morning before the rest of the house was awake, I returned to the other side of the world, in the hope that the novel will eventually be able to make some sort of contribution to restoring what was lost.
In any case, of course it isn't possible, or even desirable, to escape completely. I'm not sure how much any of us can do to change things in Syria or the Congo, but I've promised myself that at least I'll keep myself better informed now that I'm back. I'm feeling energised by progress with the novel, and full of that back-to-school verve that typifies September. I plan to eat lots of vegetables, work regular hours, make space for rest. Now that I've cleared a bit of space (and have new bookshelves!) I'm excited rather than daunted by the prospect of the garden residency and keen to explore the possibilities of the journal. And I'll be swimming regularly, of course, though sadly there's no lake here to cross before breakfast. Thank you Landroannec - already looking forward to next time.
This was my first visit this year to Nick and Di's lovely Landroannec home and it was great to see how their garden is coming on. The wonderfully blowsy blue hydrangeas so popular in northern France rub shoulders with fuchsia and camellia and wisteria (building up to a second flowering, as here) and walnut trees that seem to grow like weeds. The air is scented with roses and the last of the stocks, and Nick sent me up the drive to soak up the smell of the pines in the heat of the day - gorgeous. I managed a tiny bit of weeding on my last day. Mostly, though, I had the tough job of deciding between sun or shade, the grassy knoll under the apple tree or at the table just outside the house where we dawdled over breakfasts (wild blackberries and whitecurrants and windfall plums) that slid into coffee and, on the hottest, laziest days into lunch. On other days our pre-breakfast swim was augmented by a bike ride along the track into Mur for coffee and croissants in the local 'Rockwell' bar, and maybe a glass of wine before we wobbled home. The house martins nesting in the garage seem pretty comfortable there too, although Nick's bald head became a target of some rather frenzied ducking and diving if he strayed too close - why didn't Di and I suffer the same treatment? The babies were busy with flying lessons - we came upon our first, a velvety rabbit's paw of stripes and fluff on the path at our feet as we walked down to the lake early one morning. And oh that lake..!
A couple of kilometres along the road towards St Brieuc we found the delightful Jardins du Botrain, tucked away down a tiny back road. It's one of those gardens that's full of surprises - a modest little Japanese garden leads into mixed beds of mallows and daisies, roses and cosmos and loads of those fabulous purple things, hydrangeas of course, wonderful old trees and shady grassy bits, a pergola, a roseraie (a shame we don't have such a pretty English term for a rose garden), a wood and, just when you think you must have reached the boundary, a lake, bordered by gunnera, a tree fern, even a banana tree. It's rather overgrown in places, and full of quirks. Walking round felt more akin to sharing a private pleasure than sampling a public space. My favourite flight of fancy? - A woven willow frame for a view, at eye level in a thick hedge, a perfect circle, looking out from the darkness of the wood over open fields and farmland. We didn't investigate the history of the garden although it seems to be the product of a husband-and-wife team, who were very excited by the comment in the visitors' book from their latest English visitors, that Botrain was 'better than Sissinghurst'. And guess what we bought to take home to Landroannec? - an ajuga reptans. Sorry, Nancy.
On one of the sunniest days we drove to Etel, a small town on the south coast: coffee at the bar, a picnic lunch on the beach, many swims in the silky sea, a cold beer on the harbour. Then we joined 500 or so other customers at the long rows of trestle tables in the huge hangar of the criée, the fish market, to sample the grilled sardines that this area is famous for. It's an annual charity event, apparently, a week-long celebration, where the fishermen grill the fish outside in racks of about 100 I guess and their wives (!) serve at table. Very traditional, very noisy, very Breton - and very tasty. I cleared my plate, tails and all, unlike my neighbour who had more bones than fish by the end of her meal. There was far - a heavy Breton custard-type cake, sweetened with prunes - for pudding. I emerged, of course, with my new frock covered in grease spots. Thanks to Nick's internet research, a thick layer of cornflour left on for a few hours before washing did the trick.
This was my fifth visit, we reckon, though the details of the various stays proved impossible to recall clearly. We agonised at length over dates and times and possibilities. I'm not sure quite why it seemed so important to get the record straight, except that an absolutely crystal clear memory I have of an earlier visit to La Trinité-sur-Mer simply could not have happened. So I'm left wondering: did I dream this? Or are we capable of believing elaborate inventions of our own making? It's relevant partly because Di and I, as artist and writer, are engaged in what is, to us, a fascinating exploration of our own overlapping memories and how we might represent these. Does it matter if what we 'remember' simply isn't true..?
Whilst I was away I also spent a bit of time most days in Argentina - not literally, of course, not this time. But I'd gone away determined to finish editing a novel I began over four years ago and have been fiddling with off and on ever since. It's set entirely in Argentina, and deals with the 'Dirty War' of the 1970s and those who were 'disappeared' by the authorities. It hinges on memory, on the importance for a healthy society of being open about what is past. It was inspired I suppose by the various groups in Argentina today who are working to reclaim the memory of those terrible times in the search for truth and justice. When I was in Córdoba three years ago, I visited one of the secret detention centres which had recently been turned into a memorial. At the entrance, a huge thumbprint, a proof of identity, is made up of hundreds of names of the disappeared. So in Brittany, each morning before the rest of the house was awake, I returned to the other side of the world, in the hope that the novel will eventually be able to make some sort of contribution to restoring what was lost.
In any case, of course it isn't possible, or even desirable, to escape completely. I'm not sure how much any of us can do to change things in Syria or the Congo, but I've promised myself that at least I'll keep myself better informed now that I'm back. I'm feeling energised by progress with the novel, and full of that back-to-school verve that typifies September. I plan to eat lots of vegetables, work regular hours, make space for rest. Now that I've cleared a bit of space (and have new bookshelves!) I'm excited rather than daunted by the prospect of the garden residency and keen to explore the possibilities of the journal. And I'll be swimming regularly, of course, though sadly there's no lake here to cross before breakfast. Thank you Landroannec - already looking forward to next time.
Wednesday, 14 August 2013
August
It’s that time of year. ‘Still,’ Helen says when I meet her
in the queue for coffee this morning.
‘Nothing is happening – things just turning brown.’ At mid-day it feels like summer, vivid skies
dotted with cloud, sun hot on my arms.
Mornings and evenings are suddenly cool, though. ‘A bit back-endish,’ Jack’s dad used to say. His favourite joke, delivered always on June
22nd, as soon as the longest day was over: ‘The nights are drawing
in, then’. That wry northern
humour. I’ve dug up my northern roots
but, five years after my last days in a Carlisle classroom, I remain tangled in
the patterns of the school year, so that the second half of August takes on an
ominous quality: results looming, unfinished paperwork piled up, planning not
done; my nights disturbed by bad dreams.
Stop. Listen. Never mind the echoes of the past or worries
about time passing. Here and now.
Which since yesterday evening is not Cambridge at all, but central
Brittany: late morning, warm sun, cloudless sky. Not a breath of wind, the lake like glass
when we swam first thing, the poplars that rustled as we arrived yesterday
evening are silent, barely moving now. There
is a white buddleia in front of the house which is busy with butterflies, and a
young hollyhock on the end of the trellis which reminds me of home. I haven’t found hollyhocks in the Botanics
yet though I’m
sure there must be some but they were there as I cycled to the
library yesterday, palest lemon, peachy pink, with that deliciously seductive
floppiness. In the Botanics, clumps of michaelmas
daisies have been clamouring for my attention, their lovely violet-blue faces turning
I imagine towards the sun. My friend
Nancy grumbles about my inclination towards the commonplace: ‘all those
wonderful hellebores,’ she said, ‘and your first pick is a bloody ajuga reptans’. She won’t think much of my current favourites.
I wonder if part of the attraction is familiarity. I am at present feeling rather overawed by
the size of the thing: not just the physical spread of the garden’s 40 acres
but the huge range of plants that I don’t know, the complexity of the various taxonomies,
the weight of all the accumulated knowledge; and not least by the enormity of
my project. How can I put all this into
words in a few months? ‘A garden is
people first and plants second.’ So says
Katherine Swift. I think of all the
people who have shaped or tended or visited Cambridge’s botanic garden over its
almost 200 years of history. Sometimes I
think I can hear the voices of the long-dead chattering at me from the edge of
the lake or the systematic beds: like Caliban, for me this isle is ‘full of noises’. My own childhood memories of gardens and
gardening are not happy ones; still, I recognise the snapdragons now arrived in
the bee beds – and those lovely purple daisies – as old friends.
I
suppose this is something to do with points of reference, of knowing my way
around my world. I have laughed in the past at my rather
neurotic insistence on knowing the names of things – but perhaps this is no
laughing matter. I’ve recently read
Carol Kaesuk Yoon’s Naming Nature, a
fascinating and accessible review of science’s 200-year quest to ‘order and name
the entire living world’. Yoon raises
the key notion of umwelt, our
perception of the world around us, and suggests that most of us ‘have forgotten
that a natural order even exists’. The words
we have for our
environment have been replaced by product names and logos so
that we have become ’mute in the language of life’. She suggests that we need to reclaim, not just
our relationship with nature but with the names we have for it, whether we opt
for Linnaeus’s Latin binomials or the rich resource of folk names: the pansy,
for example, viola tricolor, is
variously called love-in-idleness, heartsease, johnny jump up, jack-jump-up-and-kiss-me,
herb trinity, three faces under a hood, kiss behind the garden gate, pink of my
john, call me to you, pensée, tickle my fancy... gaining a sense of self’.
Nick is crouched over the buddleia with a butterfly book. ‘A painted lady,’ he says. Di reminds me of her project, as yet unrealised, of a year getting up and going to bed with the light; something about tuning in to the rhythms of a place. Here, now, time for lunch: bread, cheese, maybe a glass of wine and savouring the delicious prospect of two weeks holiday.
Wednesday, 24 July 2013
On the Inside
High summer, astonishing heat – days of record temperatures
which make being indoors a welcome relief even for sun-lovers like me. There’s also a sense in which part of the
life of a botanic garden goes on behind closed doors – or perhaps one propped
half-open in the hope of a cool breeze – planning, running, development and
outreach, learning – and of course the science which underpins the whole
enterprise. I find myself thinking of
the garden’s creators, trying to imagine what they saw as they designed and
planted, how far a vision of the beautiful space which today’s visitors enjoy
encroached on the need to establish a centre for study and research, and a
living plant record.
Nelson Street, Derby |
So I’m surprised by how fascinating non-live plant records
can be. I spent yesterday morning in the
university’s herbarium, chatting to Christine Bartram and looking through
folders of plant pressings. Until
recently I had never heard the word ‘herbarium’ so that my first encounter, in
the Botanics’ own smaller version in Cory Lodge, reduced me to incoherent
amazement: ‘Wow!’ I said, and ‘Wow!’ as door after door in the tall metal
cabinets opened to reveal an extraordinary record: not living, of course, but
‘real’ specimens as opposed to a paper description. There are
Lindley sheet with type specimen |
Bloody cranesbill: I.H.F. |
'Miss Sarah Anne Drake |
I suppose the painting, or much of it, was done indoors, but none of these women fit the bill of little women working quietly away behind the scenes, while their men were out and about
Marion Seward: Centaurea Cyanus (detail) |
Sunday, 7 July 2013
The Hard Stuff
Not that I’ve been turning to the bottle (though there have
been moments in the last week or so when that welcome glass of Malbec at the
end of a day just hasn’t been robust enough).
More that I’ve found myself (of my own choosing, of course) on several
occasions recently in situations that seemed – just too difficult.
The Barn Garden |
Last weekend ought to have been one hundred per cent
pleasure: two days in heavenly weather in one of the loveliest gardens (Tom and
Sue Stuart-Smith’s Barn Garden near Kings Langley) I’ve ever encountered, in the company of experts in their field. Organised by The Garden Museum, this was their first festival of garden writing. I was charmed by Cleve West’s
tales of life on his London allotment and entranced by Piet Oudolf’s emphasis
on the narrative of the garden and the emotional response of those who visit. Sunday began with a compelling address from
Sue Stuart-Smith on ‘Gardens and the Mind’.
Drawing on her work as a psychiatrist and psychotherapist, she explored
ways in which the garden can be a source of renewal and regeneration, replacing
the impotence which often accompanies depression with a sense of agency
although, ‘like the good enough mother, Nature never fails to remind us of the
limits to our powers’. Most exciting,
though, in my book were readings from the three finalists in the garden memoir
competition, sponsored by Granta. All three
had turned to childhood memories to explore the significance of the garden and
all packed an emotional punch – interesting as, according to a publisher I met
at the event, our interest in the affective aspect of gardens is rarely reflected
in the literature. Despite all this, at
the end of the second day I couldn’t wait to leave. Partly this was simply physical fatigue after
two days on my feet (there was only a handful of chairs outside of the actual
venues, and I’m always afraid that, if I succumb to the temptation to flop down
on a grassy slope, I’ll never get up again.)
I was wearied also, though, by a kind of loneliness: the event promised ‘a
friend’ and there were plenty of people who knew each other, but what is it
about the English upper middle classes en masse which feels like a rather exclusive
club? It’s not one I belong to, for
sure.
John & Ellie |
I’m not really one for clubs anyway, but the day before I’d
been with John and Ellie from Camtango to give a talk and demo on our
experience of Argentine tango and Parkinson’s to the local Parkinson’s
society. This felt like quite an ordeal:
for years I kept my ‘condition’ (better than ‘disease’, though not much) as
quiet as possible and until now I’ve avoided situations where I might be
defined by Parkinson’s. So it was a
surprise to find I enjoyed the morning.
We were warmly welcomed and what we said and did seemed to go down
well. In the car on the way home, I
remember thinking what I thought I already knew: accepting that I have
Parkinson’s is not the same as letting the illness define who I am. A hard lesson, but one worth learning. Maybe I’ll go along to another meeting
sometime.
Um...a not very scientific arrangement of some of the leguminosae (pea) family |
‘Flowering Plant Families’, a five-day full-time course at
the Botanics last week, was the hardest stuff by a mile. I expected it to be difficult. It’s almost 50 years since I day-dreamed my
way through compulsory science lessons, longer since I’ve handled a
microscope. For the first hour or so I
concentrated on the pronunciation of the Latin family names, marking the main
stress on each in case I was called on to say it out loud. In fact I quickly came to love examining
plant parts through the microscope or even the hand lens although dexterity,
one of the first casualties of Parkinson’s for me, made working with such fine
detail a struggle, and every visit to the systematic beds a juggling act of
lens, camera, secateurs, pencil. I
learnt a whole new vocabulary – don’t say flower, say inflorescence. These aren’t
petals, they’re sepals or even tepals – honestly! I’m
distracted by a fleeting memory of Henry Reed’s ‘Naming of Parts’. ‘Are we allowed to call it a – pod?’ Rose asks archly. I make notes, determine to stay focused. Just as I feel I am beginning to make some progress,
the afternoon session begins with an emphasis on how the old categories (sorry,
families) can no longer be taken for
granted; DNA has changed all that.
Still, I was thrilled to be learning – glad to be part of such a varied
and friendly group, and the buzz of being encouraged to pick the flowers (well,
examples) never quite left me. The first
day ended with dinner – good food, nice wine, a chance to get to know the other
16 – and I left full of optimism.
The next morning I woke feeling that I’d climbed a small
mountain – no, a large one. Everything
ached; I felt exhausted even before I dragged my good old Hudson onto the road
and pedalled off. I thought I knew neurological
fatigue. I do now. It got worse as the week progressed, until I
began to wonder if I’d make it to Friday.
Don’t get me wrong: I loved, really loved, almost every tough minute. Fortunately, too, I met a friend also familiar
with chronic illness, so we grumbled quietly to each other and that felt like a
big support – I hope it was mutual. But
I’m glad I pushed myself, far beyond what normally feels like the limit. Apart from
anything else, all that sex going on under my nose and I’d never noticed!
Sunday evening now and after two days recovering I’m feeling
more like myself, trying to sort what I’ve learnt into some sort of order and work
out how my new knowledge, such as it is, will inform the writing I hope to do
during the residency. Rose sent me back
to Alice Oswald’s extraordinary ‘Dart’, where the voices of all she met along
its course emerge as the ‘mutterings’ of the river. Stephanie reminded me of The Morville Hours, in which Katherine Swift uses the
Hours of the
Divine Office as a format for her garden story.
And I recall our visit to the university herbarium in the wonderful
Sainsbury building on our last evening. Amongst
all that was astonishing – over a million specimens preserved over hundreds of
years, treasures from Darwin’s Beagle voyage – the story of Mrs Meredith, a collector
whose samples sent back to England from Australia went largely uncredited. Some of her illustrations are there. I find out she was also a published poet. I’m excited by possibilities but rather overfaced
by the size of the task. I check my
latest email from my mentor: ‘My first thing to say is I’m going to pressurise
you about the journal form...’ Maybe the
hard stuff is just beginning. Where’s
the Malbec?
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